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Wednesday, September 16, 2020

Birdwatching in West Papua

West Papua is an important birdwatching destination in the world. Wondiwoi Mountains in Wondama Bay regency; Nimbokrang in Jayapura,  Susnguakti forest and Arfak mountains in Manokwari; Mount Sakofsiah and Ases Valley in Tambrauw; Klatomok village and Malagufuk village in Sorong; Waigeo island in Raja Ampat are the natural habitat of hundreds of species of avifauna including birds of paradise.
The main targets are Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise, Lesser Bird of Paradise, King Bird of Paradise, Magnificent Riflebird, Glossy-mantled Manucode, Magnificent Bird of Paradise, Western Parotia, Black Sicklebill, Vogelkop Superb Bird of Paradise, Long-tailed Paradigala, and a lot more. 

A good pair of binoculars is needed by bird watchers especially when they want to watch birds in distant or tall trees. Famous brands such as Swarovski, Leica, Zeiss, Nikon, Vortex have got binoculars that are offered in a price range from around 200 US dollars to more than 1,000 US dollars.
I use Canon 200D with Tamron 150-600mm G2 telefoto lenses as by birding camera. Well, it is not the best birding camera on the market. There are Nikon 500D, Fujifilm X-T30, and Canon EOS 7D Mark II that are much better than mine. In the past I used Nikon Coolpix P500, Nikon P600 and Fujifilm HS50EXR. Bridge camera are good devices for taking pictures of birds in distant trees and with brighter sunlight. However, these point and shoot cameras have got small sensors. So, in certain cases such as in lowlight condition or when there are some twigs or leaves in front of the birds, the cameras cannot easily focus on the birds. Sony RX10 IV is a bridge camera that is equipped with 1 inch sensor. With 600 mm lens, it can produce high quality photographs and other wild animals. 
Wondiwoi Nature Reserve is located in the south of Wondama Bay regency and is the natural habitat of such birds as Grey Crow, Olive-backed Sunbird, Red-cheeked Parrot, Palm Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Spangled Drongo, Coconut Lorikeet, Red Myzomela, Lesser Birds of Paradise, King Bird of Paradise, Pinon Imperial Pigeon, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Willie Wagtail, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Whimbrel, Yellow-billed Kingfisher and a lot more. 

Susnguakti Forest - This is a hidden birding and wildlife watching site in lower montane forest of Arfak range. Cuscus possum, forest dragon lizard, toad, snakes, bandicoot, and various kinds of insects can be seen here. For birds, the ones that I see in this forest include Lesser Birds of Paradise, Magnificent Riflebird, King Bird of Paradise, Brown Cuckoo Dove, Superb Fruit Dove, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Azure Kingfisher, Frilled Monarch, Shining Flycatcher, Rainbow Lorikeet, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Black-capped Lory, Hooded Butcherbird. 
Arfak Mountains are located in the south of Manokwari city. Its higher montane forest is a very popular destination for visitors who want to watch various species of birds that are endemic to New Guinea (particularly to West Papua) such as Brehm's Tiger Parrot, Vogelkop Melidectes, Mottled Berryhunter, Papuan Flycatcher, Black-breasted Boatbill, Golden Face, Spectacled Longbill, Tit Berrypecker, Western Smoky Honeyeater, Feline Owlet Nightjar, and etc. 
Around the guesthouse where I usually stay, there is flower garden. Red Hibiscus, Rhododendrons, New Guinea Impatience, Orchids plants are planted to decorate the landscapes. They attract small birds to eat their nectar and flower or to just sit inside their tiny twigs.

West Papua is a popular birding destination especially among avid birdwatchers who want to watch paradise birds as well as other tropical birds. 
As a tourist guide, I have accompanied a lot of visitors on various birdwatching and wildlife watching tours from lowland to lower and higher montane forests. Here are the birding sites that I have visited with my clients:
Klasow valley in Sorong regency. There are tens of villages in this valley. 
Klatomok Village is located at the road side. Homestays in affordable cost are available in this village. It is the most recommended place for visitors who want to enjoy easy birding. Some of the birds which birdwatchers can see here include Oriental Dollar Bird, Yellow-faced Myna, Golden Myna, Magnificent Riflebird, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Blue Black Kingfisher, Azure Kingfisher, Helmetted Friarbird, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, 
Western-crowned Pigeon,  Orange-bellied Fruit Dove, Brown Cuckoo Dove, Wompoo Fruit Dove, Lowland Peltop, and etc.
Malagufuk have got homestays which visitors can choose to stay for a few days. Birds that can be watched are similar to the ones that I mention above with such extra birding target as Northern Cassowary, Lesser Birds of Paradise, King Bird of Paradise, Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise, and etc. 
In addition to birds, visitors can also see flowers such as hibiscus, zinnia elegans and other wild flowers in rainforest. Flower season usually occurs at the end of dry season, i.e. in November and early December. When there are a lot of flowers, butterflies will come to collect their nectar. 
Fef Valley - This is a valley that has now become the capital of Tambrauw regency. It is surrounded by lower montane forest. Because it is in the interior area of Vogelkop region of West Papua, visitors who go there will be able to watch Magnificent Bird of Paradise, Lesser Bird of Paradise, New Guinea Vulturine Parrot, New Guine Harpy Eagle, Long-tailed Buzzard, Sacred Kingfisher, Hooded Pitta, Red-bellied Pitta, 
Mount Sakofsiah and Ases Valley - Located deeper in the interior region of Tambrauw Mountains, they are very important birding sites in West Papua province.  Birds that can be watched in this forest are similar to the ones in Fef but in Mount Sakofsiah and Ases Valley, more wildlife can be seen. In addition a lot of birds, visitors who go to there can see mammals, reptiles, insects and a lot of tropical plants of New Guinea.
To explore the places that I mention above, we need to go by 4WD car. The most popular vehicle here is Toyota Hilux. Before going to those remote forests, we have to buy food and other logistical materials in Manokwari city.
This year, government of Indonesia have closed access for foreign tourists to enter West Papua due to Covid-19 pandemic. We hope that next year (2021), foreign tourists will be allowed to enter West Papua again. This is written by Charles Roring
Kabui Bay of Raja Ampat - I like traveling to this beautiful archipelago because I can enjoy birding and snorkeling. Red Bird of Paradise and Wilson's Bird of Paradise can be seen there. Other interesting species such as Spice Imperial Pigeon, White-breasted Woodswallow, Wimbrel, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Palm Cockatoo, Beach Kingfisher, Moluccan King Parrot, and etc. can be watched there. 
The beaches in Warduwer, Saporkren, Urai and a lot of other small islands in the bay are covered by coral reefs. They are also considered as the tropical rainforest of the sea. Butterfly fish, Boxfish, Anemonefish, Moorish Idol, and a lot of other species of marine animals can be seen in the sea water.
Bring snorkeling gear (mask, snorkel, fins and underwater camera) if you want to enjoy snorkeling in Raja Ampat.
Actually, it is not only Raja Ampat where you can go to enjoy snorkeling. There are other places in West Papua that have got coral reef. Some of them include Manokwari, Tambrauw, Sorong, Kaimana, Fakfak, Wondama Bay, and South Manokwari. 
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Sunday, September 6, 2020

Tanah Papua A Paradise for Birds

Tanah Papua is the Malay words for Papua Land or New Guinea island. It is the natural habitat of a lot of species of paradise birds as well as other tropical birds. As a tourist guide, I have run birding tours in West Papua since 2010. Before that I guided visitors on snorkeling, culture and art tour.
Vogelkop Bowerbird (Amblyornis innornatus)
Vogelkop Bowerbird

A male Lesser Birds of Paradise (Paradisaea minor)
Lesser Birds of Paradise in Susnguakti forest
Places that I go with my clients to watch birds include Kwau village in Mokwam region, Susnguakti forest, Dopi river, Mesirrokow forest, Aiwatar hill, Ayapokiar village, Mount Sakofsiah and Ases valley, Fef, Sausapor, Syuan and Syugrar rivers; Klawos forest, Klatomok village, Malagufuk village in Klasow valley, Kabui bay, Misool, and Waigeo islands.
birds of paradise watching tour in Indonesia
French tourists were camping and birding in Tambrauw's forest
Most often the places where we go are located deep in the jungle. Hotels or guesthouses are not available. So, we stay in dome tents by a river.
King Bird of Paradise
King Bird of Paradise (Cicinnurus regius)
During the day and night, we explore the forest. In Susnguakti forest of Manokwari, we could see Lesser Birds of Paradise, King Bird of Paradise, Magnificent Riflebird, Glossy-mantled Manucode, Eclectus Parrot, Hooded Butcherbird, Golden Cuckooshrike, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrot, Brown Cuckoo Dove, Hooded Pitta, Red-bellied Pitta and a lot more.
It is not only birds that attract the attention of visitors. Wild flowers such as orchids, vine flowers are also beautiful. In open area, a long the roadsides and riversides, we may see passion flowers, blue trumpet vine. In lowland the size of the flower is smaller than the one in highland.
Vine flower in the forest
Passion flower
Traveling to higher montane forest of Vogelkop region, we will be able to watch such birds as Magnificent Bird of Paradise, Western Parotia that dances like a ballerina, Black Sicklebill, Vogelkop Super Bird of Paradise, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Black-eared Catbird, Western Smoky Honeyeater, Vogelkop Melidectes, Feline Owlet Nightjar, Spectacled Long Bill, Mottled Berryhunter, Golden Face, Wattled Brush Turkey, Masked Bowerbird, Mountain Peltop and a lot more.
Birding in Arfak mountains
Magnificent Bird of Paradise
In Mokwam regions, blinds for watching birds are provided by local people for tourists who want to watch birds. There is a simple bench in each blind that can accommodate 4 to 5 people.
The land mass in higher montane forest is less than in lowland. The population and spread of certain species of birds are very limited. The Long-tailed Paradigala and Black Sicklebill are two examples of rare birds that we may see in higher montane forest of Arfak range if we visit it to watch birds.
Birdwatching in lowland forest of Manokwari
French tourists were watching birds in Manokwari
In lowland forest of Sorong regency, we could find Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise, Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, Blue Black Kingfisher, Black Lory, Western-crowned Pigeon, Yellow-bellied Longbill, Lowland Peltop.
We could continue our adventure to Raja Ampat islands where we will be able to see a great varieties of sea birds from Wimbrel to Beach Thick Knee and from White-bellied Sea Eagle to Eastern Osprey. Walking in the forest, we will be able to see birds that are the same as the ones in mainland New Guinea, but we will also have the opportunity to watch Raja Ampat's Red Bird of Paradise and Wilson's Bird of Paradise.
The above places that I mention are some of the many interesting birding sites which tourists can go to if they want to watch beautiful tropical birds of Tanah Papua. 
Most birdwatchers bring binoculars but there are some who carry spotting scope which is a versatile tool for watching birds and any wild animals in distant branches of trees. They also use bridge camera that has super-zoom lens such as Nikon P900 or even P1000. Those who are physically fit can carry D-SLR camera with super-telephoto lens such as Tamron or Sigma 150-600 mm.
Please, contact me by email to: peace4wp@gmail.com or by whatsapp to: +6281332245180 if you are interested in taking a bird watching trip to this beautiful tropical island. This has been written by Charles Roring.
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Saturday, September 5, 2020

Birding in Mount Sakofsiah and Ases Valley

Mount Sakofsiah and Ases Valley are two important birding sites in Vogelkop region of West Papua. They are located next to Fef - the capital of Tambrauw regency. I used to go there several times to enjoy birdwatching and wildlife watching. The last time I went there was when I guided a couple of American tourists. We spent around 4 days in the forest to watch parrots, kingfishers, fruit doves and a lot of other tropical birds of West Papua. One of the most important species that could be seen in the area was the New Guinea Vulturine Parrot.
New Guinea Vulturine Parrot
New Guinea Vulturine Parrot in Ases Valley
The bird has been widely extirpated by local people who hunt them to get its bright red feather. They use the feather for making traditional costumes which they use during traditional ceremonies.
In Tambrauw regency the New Guinea Vulturine Parrot is protected. The local government of Tambrauw has declared their territory as the regency of conservation.
American tourists in Mount Sakofsiah of Tambrauw mountains
American Tourists in Mount Sakofsiah
Logging of trees for commercial purposes, the conversion of forest into mono-culture plantation and the hunting of wild animals are strictly prohibited.
Tourism has been promoted as an important income generation scheme for local people.
Birdwatching and wildlife watching have become popular activities among visitors who go to Tambrauw especially to Mount Sakofsiah and Ases Valley. We enjoyed swimming in the river, did night walks, and went hiking in the mountains during our stay in Mount Sakofsiah and Ases valley.
When I and the American tourists as well as the local villagers explore the forest, we saw a lot of birds including Magnificent Riflebird, Lesser Bird of Paradise, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Great Cuckoo Dove, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Pinon Imperial Pigeon, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Palm Cockatoo, Coconut Lorikeet, Blyth's Hornbill, Black-browed Triller, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Sacred Kingfisher, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, cassowary, Golden Cuckooshrike, Oriental Dollarbird, Yellow-faced Myna, Golden Myna, Long-tailed Buzzard, New Guinea Harpy Eagle and a lot more.
Czech tourists were enjoying riverwalk and wildlife photography tour in Ases river of Tambrauw mountains
Czech tourists in Ases river of Tambrauw regency
Deer, wallaby, cuscus possum, sugar glider, tree kangaroo, wild boar, snake also make the forest of Mount Sakofsiah and Ases valley as their natural habitat.
The landscape view of Mount Sakofsiah is very beautiful. I highly recommend this place as the most important destination for everyone who wants to see pristine rainforest ecosystem of West Papua.
I suggest that visitors go in a group of at least 2 to 4 people in order to share the cost of the tour.
The Covid-19 pandemic still occur throughout the world. This has forced Indonesian government stop the trips of all foreign tourists into the country. Government may allow foreign travellers again in next year in 2021.
If you are interested in traveling to Tambrauw mountains and want me to organize your tour, please, contact me by email to: peace4wp@gmail.com or by whatsapp to: +6281332245180.

Wednesday, September 2, 2020

Malagufuk's Birds

Malagufuk, a small jungle village in Klasow valley of Sorong regency is a nice place for visitors who like birding. I introduced it for the first time to the outer world as a new destination for ecotourism activities in late 2014. At that time nobody in birding tourism industry knew its existence. The Tropical Birds Visitors who travel to Malagufuk will be able to watch a lot of tropical rainforest birds. Some of them are listed below:

Lesser Birds of Paradise (Paradisaea minor)
Male Lesser Bird of Paradise

Beautiful Fruit Dove, Orange-bellied Fruit Dove, Wompoo Fruit Dove, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Ornate Fruit Dove, Brown Cuckoo Dove, Great-cuckoo Dove, Pinon Imperial Pigeon, Western-crowned Pigeon, Magnificent Riflebird, King Bird of Paradise, Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise, Lesser Birds of Paradise, Glossy-mantled Manucode, Rainbow Bee-eater, Yellow-faced Myna, Golden Myna, Eclectus Parrot, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Palm Cockatoo, Black Lory, Black-capped Lory, Large Fig Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot, Coconut Lorikeet Lorikeet, Greater Black Coucal, Lesser Black Coucal, Blue-black Kingfisher, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, Azure Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Sacred Kingfisher, Hook-billed Kingfisher, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Lowland Peltop, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Boyer's Cuckooshrike, Red-bellied Pitta, Hooded Pitta, Shining Flycatcher, Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Variable Goshawk, Grey-headed Goshawk, Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, Spangled Drongo, Black Sunbird, Sahul Sunbird, Olive-crowned Flowerpecker, Hooded Butcherbird, Oriental Dollarbird, Glossy Swiftlet, Moustached Treeswift, Metallic Starling, Rufous Owl, Papuan Nightjar, Northern Cassowary, Emperor Fairywren, Blyth's Hornbill, Nankeen Night Herron, Torresian Crow, Papuan Babbler, Little Shrikethrush, Helmetted Friarbird, Yellow-bellied Longbill, Spot-winged Monarch, Frilled Monarch, Rusty Pitohui, Black-browed Triller, Black-sided Robin, Olive-crowned Flowerpecker, Oriental Cuckoo, Forest Bittern, and a lot more. 

Magnificent Riflebird (Ptiloris magnificus)
Magnificent Riflebird
Some birders who went to Malagufuk said that they also saw rare species such as Green-naped Pheasant Pigeon, Blue Jewel Babbler, and Thick-billed Ground Pigeon.

My Photographic and Birding Devices

Every time I go to the jungle village, I will bring my camera to take pictures of birds, wild animals and unique plants. In the past, I brought Nikon Coolpix P600. After that I used a Fujifilm HS50EXR which I used for several years. In recent years, I bring Canon 200D with Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens. For watching birds, my devices are quite modest, a pair of Visionking 10×42 mm binoculars and a Kinglux 20-60×60mm spotting scope. Malagufuk is located quite deep into the lowland forest of Klasow valley. Now, there is a 3.3 kilometers wooden boardwalk that connects Malagufuk and the main road. In the past, the path from mainroad to the village was muddy and the plants on both sides of the it were infested with mosquitoes and leeches. 

Alternative Birding and Wildlife Watching Sites They may not be suitable for tourists who could not walk for several hours. There is some good alternative places for birdwatching. My recommendation will be Sansapore Pacific Park in Sausapor town; Klabili village are located in the same valley and forest areas at the outskirts of Sorong city

For birdwatchers and nature lovers who are willing to travel further in the region to watch more different and endemic avifauna can combine their trips to Sonder town in Minahasa highland of North Sulawesi province of Indonesia. There is regular daily flights that connect Sorong city with Manado city.



BIRDWATCHING IN MINAHASA
As a tourist guide, I offer birdwatching tour to Minahasa highland in the Province of North Sulawesi of Indonesia.  It is a beautiful tourist destination. The duration of the tour is between 3 to 7 days depending on the number of birding sites that the participants want to visit during the tour.  The outskirt areas of Sonder town have got roads through forest and farmlands that allow visitors to enjoy birding easily.
some birds in Sonder forest
Yellow-billed Malkoha, Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove, Crimson Sunbird, White-breasted Woodswallow, Sooty-headed Bulbul
The hill forest, agricultural land and paddy field of Sonder are the habitat of the following birds:
  • Barred Rail
  • Black Sunbird
  • Black-naped Oriole
  • Black-faced Munia
  • Black-crowned White-eye
  • Brush Cuckoo
  • Brown-throated Sunbird
  • Cinnamon Bittern
  • Collared Kingfisher
  • Crimson Sunbird
  • Chestnut Munia
  • Cattle Egret
  • Eurasian Treesparrow
  • Eastern Yellow Wagtail
  • Finch-billed Myna
  • Glossy Swiftlet
  • Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon
  • Gray-sided Flowerpecker
  • Gray-rumped Treeswift
  • Hair-crested (White-eyed) Drongo
  • Little Egret
  • Mountain (Warbling) White-eye
  • Pale Blue Monarch
  • Purple Heron
  • Sahul Sunbird
  • Slender-billed Crow
  • Sulawesi Drongo
  • Sulawesi Myzomela
  • Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher
  • Scaly-breasted Kingfisher
  • Scaly-breasted Munia
  • Sulawesi Cuckoo-dove
  • Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker
  • Sooty-headed Bulbul
  • Sulawesi Hanging Parrot
  • Sunda Teal
  • Rock Pigeon
  • Yellow-sided Flowerpecker
  • Yellow-billed Malkoha
  • White-browed Crake
  • White-breasted Woodswallow
  • White-nest Swiftlet
  • White-faced Cuckoo-dove
  • Zebra Dove
  • and etc. 
in Sonder of Minahasa Highland
Scaly-breasted Munia, Gray-sided Flowerpecker, Sulawesi Hanging Parrot, Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher
It is not only birds that we will see during the walk through farmland. We could see butterflies and other animals as well. 
Black-naped Oriole (Oriolus chinensis)
Black-naped Oriole
Agricultural Produce
Minahasan people grow food crops such as banana, sweet potatoes, taro, corn and rice. There are also vegetable and fruit gardens. Clove and nutmeg used to be important commodities in Sonder and other districts in Minahasa. The cultivation of vanilla is also popular among farmers in Minahasa highland. They also run fish, pig and poultry farming. Farmers in North Sulawesi diversify their crops in order to have stable income from agriculture. In Tincep village, people grow rice, they also sell various kinds of colorful flowers. For Rambunan village, one of the products that they sell is palm sugar. It is an important ingredients in various kinds of home made foods in Indonesia. 
Other birding sites in the Province of North Sulawesi that birdwatchers could visit include Tangkoko Nature Reserve, Mount Mahawu, Lake Linow, Pine Forest of Lahendong, Talawaan Road, Maleo Sanctuary in Tambun, and Mount Ambang.
Waterfall, flowers, birds and butterfly in Tincep village in Minahasa
Waterfall, flowers, birds and butterfly in Tincep village of Minahasa
Birding Devices 
Most tourists bring binoculars. For photographers, they like to bring D-SLR camera with telephoto lens. When I guide birding tourists, I bring my binoculars, spotting scope, laser pointer, and portable loudspeaker. I use field guide book Birds of the Indonesian Archipelago: Greater Sundas and Wallacea by James Eaton et al. A very good alternative for field guide is Android based Merlin App. by the CornellLab.
birds in Sonder town
Purple Heron, Zebra Dove, Hair-crested (White-eyed Drongo), Sooty-headed Bulbul, Finch-billed Myna, Brown-throated Sunbird, Collared Kingfisher

Butterflies
In addition to birds, visitors could also see various species of butterflies such as Blanchard's Tree Nymph, Blanchard's Wood Nymph, Manado Yellow Tiger Butterfly, Lime Swallowtail, Meyer's Jay (Graphium meyeri), Blue Moon or Great Eggfly, Gigon Swallowtail (Papilio gigon), Sacred Tabby (Pseudergolis avesta) and etc.
Meyer's Jay (Graphium meyeri)
Meyer's Jay Butterfly

Where is Minahasa and how to get there?
Minahasa is a region in the Province of North Sulawesi whose capital is Manado city. The birdwatching tour that I offer in this article will be conducted around the town of the district town of Sonder. It takes around 1 hour 30 minutes by car from Sam Ratulangi International Airport of Manado city to Sonder town.
flight routes to Manado city
Flight routes from major cities to Manado
Visitors need to fly from their country to Manado city. There are international direct flights from Singapore to Manado city served by Scoot Air. From Guangzhou to China, the flight is served by China Southern Airlines. 
For domestic flights between major cities in Indonesia such as Jakarta, Surabaya, Makassar, Balikpapan, and Sorong, the flights are available everyday and are served by such airlines as Garuda, Citilink, TransNusa, Lion Air and Batik Air. 
birding around the forest and farmland of sonder town
District Town of Sonder, the birding activity will be conducted around this town

Book your birding tour now.
Please, contact me (Charles Roring) by email to peace4wp@gmail.com or by whatsapp to: +6281332245180 if you are interested in taking the birdwatching tour.


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